Exploring biblical sites of southeastern Turkey

Departing Sanliurfa, we make a stop at Harran, one of the oldest continuously lived-in places in the world. Harran (also known as Carrhae) is an archaeological site of great value as an ancient center of commerce. The legends surrounding Harran go to the beginning of man and it is said that Adam and Eve came here when they were expelled from the Garden of Eden. It is also mentioned in the Book of Genesis that Abraham and his family lived in Harran for several years on their way to Canaan. Harran is also famous for its traditional “beehive” adobe houses constructed entirely without wood. Their design makes them cool inside and it is thought that this design has been unchanged for 3,000 years. Today, most of Harran’s population lives in a nearby village.

Visiting Harran’s fortress with its unusual 10-sided towers, walls and Aleppo Gate, we also see the Grand Mosque built in the 8th century, one of the oldest and largest mosques of Anatolia – restored during the Selcuk period – with its beautiful stone masonry.

Lunch today is at the Ataturk Dam, which is part of the Southeastern Anatolia Project to bring water to this part of dry land and turn it into a breadbasket of the Middle East. It is the largest development project in Turkey with its goal of extensive irrigation for active farming and bringing electricity and clean water to every home. Similar to the Tennessee Valley Authority, its scope covers nine provinces with major economic-development outreach.

We drive to Kahta for our climb to Mt. Nemrut, the site of the state of Commagene, made world-famous by the monumental heads commemorating its ruler, Antiochus I, a site among the Eight Historical Wonders of the world and declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1987. Our van driver takes us to the car park and refreshment stand from which we slowly start our 20-minute climb to the summit. We reach the Processional Way and East Terrace where there are five colossal statues believed to be Apollo, Zeus, Tyche, Heracles and Antiochus facing the dawn. Their heads have been toppled to the ground over the centuries due to earthquakes and erosion. Also, on the East Terrace is a massive square stone, the Altar. The West Terrace is identical to the East Terrace except for the Altar and has the same statues, somewhat in better shape and facing the sunset. King Antiochus I, who is responsible for this spectacular mountaintop site, is buried somewhere underneath. However, archaeologists have been unable to find his tomb. From 64 B.C. to 32 B.C., Antiochus was king of Commagene and all the kings of this Roman state claimed descent from Alexander the Great.

We wait until sunset arrives with its breathtaking views of this incredible site and then start the much easier climb down Mt. Nemrut. The other Commagene sites within the Mt. Nemrut National Park are the Karakus (Black Bird) Tumulus and the Statue and Cendere Bridge on Cendere Creek going back to the Roman times. It is one of the oldest bridges known in the world and is still in use.

Our next city is Gaziantep, which has been an important crossroads in every period in history. We visit the Archaeological Museum famous for its Roman mosaic collections and pictures excavated in Zeugma before the waters of the Southeastern Anatolia Project flooded this ancient site. Copper work and furniture with inlaid mother-of-pearl is the specialty of the artisans of Gaziantep and we get plenty of opportunities to purchase some. The city is famous for its rich cuisine and producing the best chefs in Turkey. Gaziantep is also world-renowned for its baklava, the Gulluoglu brand the most prominent. We all line up at its store to buy the freshly baked and boxed baklava. Last but not least, the city is the center of Turkey’s pistachio production where we take advantage of the reasonable prices and stock up on pistachios.

Before departing we also visit the Jewish and Armenian Houses district, the Kurtulus Mosque and the Ethnographical Museum, a typical Gaziantep house in the old city where documents and pictures of heroes and martyrs during the “Defense of Antep” are displayed. This took place after the European forces occupied the city following the defeat of the Ottoman army in World War I.

Today’s Antakya (Antioch) is where SS. Peter, Paul and Barnabas organized the first church of the Christians, and St. Paul used Antioch as headquarters of his missionary journeys. We visit the Cave Church of St. Peter, located just outside Antakya. It is widely believed the cave had been dug by Peter himself as a place for the early Christian community of Antioch to meet and thus to be the very first Christian church. SS. Peter and Paul did preach in Antioch around 50 A.D. and a church had been established in Antioch as early as 40 A.D. Antioch became a major center for planning and organizing the apostles’ missionary efforts and it was the inhabitants of Antioch who were the first to be called Christians as followers of Jesus Christ.